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Pricing

Honest quotes.
No surprises.

Every piece of furniture is different. So is every quote. Here's how I think about pricing, and why I need to know your piece before I can give you a real number.

My promise to you

Fixed quote. Valid for 4 weeks. It won't go up.

Once I've quoted your job, that price is locked in, no matter what comes up during the restoration. No scope creep, no surprise extras. Ever.

"I want to give you an accurate price, not a ballpark that shifts once I see the piece. To do that, I need to understand what I'm actually working with."

Furniture pricing isn't like buying a product off a shelf. Two dressers that look identical from the outside can represent completely different amounts of work once I start. The timber, the finish, the condition, the detail. All of it matters. A small pair of shelves with tight curves and a complex colour match can take longer than a large flat-faced wardrobe.

That's why I don't publish set prices. What I do instead is take the time to understand your piece properly, ask the right questions, and come back with a quote that reflects the actual work involved, broken down so you can see exactly what you're paying for.

Every piece is its own puzzle.

01 The timber itself

What the piece is made of changes everything about how I work with it.

  • Solid timber Takes stain and oil beautifully and is very restorable.
  • Veneer Needs careful handling. Sanding too aggressively can break through. Existing damage like lifting, bubbling or missing sections adds complexity.
  • Timber type Baltic pine, oak, walnut, teak and mahogany all behave differently. Some absorb stain evenly, some require grain filling, some need specific prep to avoid blotching.

02 The shape & size

Bigger doesn't always mean harder. Detail and geometry matter more than dimensions.

  • Flat surfaces Efficient to sand and finish, more predictable.
  • Curved edges & carved detail Every curve has to be worked by hand. The more intricate, the more time.
  • Tight crevices & recessed panels Getting finish in and out of these areas cleanly takes patience and the right tools.
  • Legs, spindles & decorative moulding Each one needs individual attention.

03 The existing finish

What's on the piece now determines how much work goes into getting it off.

  • Paint Can be stripped, but multiple layers or thick applications add time.
  • Varnish & lacquer Some lift easily, some have sunk deep into the grain and resist strongly.
  • Dark or deeply penetrated stains Can require multiple rounds of stripping and sanding to fully remove.
  • Previously repainted or poorly finished areas Often need extra prep to get a clean base.

04 Stain or paint?

Both require different processes.

  • Natural timber / stain finish Requires the surface to be perfectly clean and even, as every mark shows under a clear finish.
  • Painted finish Involves priming, undercoating and multiple paint layers for a durable result.
  • Colour matching If you've got a specific colour in mind, achieving an exact match takes testing rounds and adds time.
  • Special finishes Limewash, two-tone, distressed. Each has their own process.

05 Damage & repairs

Structural and surface issues need to be addressed before any finishing can happen.

  • Structural repairs Loose joints, broken frames, damaged drawer runners.
  • Veneer damage Lifting, bubbling, chips or missing sections.
  • Deep scratches, gouges or water damage Filling and re-levelling the surface properly before finishing.
  • Drawer alignment Coaxing drawers back to running smoothly without compromising their integrity.

06 Cabinetry & painted surfaces

Kitchen, bathroom, doors and cupboards have their own set of variables.

  • Number of doors & drawers Quoted per surface, so the scope is clear upfront.
  • Door profile Flat doors are straightforward; routed edges, raised panels and detailed profiles take longer.
  • Current finish Laminate, painted MDF, solid timber and veneer all need different prep approaches.
  • Hardware Sourcing, supplying and installing new handles is factored in separately.

Getting you a real number.

I don't believe in vague estimates that change once work starts. My quotes are detailed, honest, and locked in, so you can make a real decision with real information.

The more detail you give me upfront, the faster and more accurate your quote will be. Photos are really helpful. Even quick phone snaps showing the overall piece, any damage, and the areas of most detail.

Once I've quoted, you've got four weeks to decide. No pressure, no follow-up calls, no expiry tricks.

01

Submit the form below

Tell me about your piece: what it is, what condition it's in, what you're hoping for. Upload some photos if you can.

02

I come back with questions

I'll likely have a few follow-up questions to make sure I understand the job properly before quoting.

03

You get a detailed quote

Broken down by what's involved, so you can see exactly what you're paying for and why.

04

Locked in for 4 weeks

That price won't change. Take your time. When you're ready, I'll book it in.

Tell me about
your piece.

The more detail you can give me, the more accurate your quote will be. Photos are genuinely the most helpful thing. Even a few quick snaps make a big difference.

I'll come back to you within a couple of days.

If your piece is painted, please include any details you know about the paint (e.g. type of paint, number of layers, or whether there may be older paint underneath).

Please upload up to 10 photos. To help provide an accurate quote, include the following:

  • ยท Whole piece (front view)
  • ยท Whole piece (back view)
  • ยท Inside view (drawers removed, interior visible)
  • ยท Close-ups of any damage or areas needing repair (if applicable)
  • ยท Any additional angles or details you think are relevant

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Follow along

See it happen in real time.

Behind-the-scenes, before and afters, and the occasional piece looking for a home.